Are pet battles still relevant?

Far from abandoned. Very active, with two very active websites and two very active Discords devoted to them outside the game proper.

Collecting and PvE battling are going strong. PvP, as people have said, if a bit iffy. For PvP, a lot depends on which “pet battlegroup” you are in, which decides your queue time, and the devs seem determined to make daft decisions that lead to a boring meta, so not many people active.

Dragonflight introduced a short quest chain giving you three Blue Level 25 pets, so at 70, that’s one quick way in.

Otherwise, I wrote a beginner’s guide here:

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